Nike Air Max 1 '86

Air Max 1 ‘86

Tinker Hatfield’s masterpiece, the Air Max 1, was released in 1987, but the beloved model seen in the decades that followed was not the one he initially created. That so-called ‘one before the 1’ had a much larger window in the heel, but it was discovered that it cracked in cold weather, and its size was reduced soon after the first pairs came out. On Air Max Day of 2023, Nike chose to celebrate Hatfield’s bold original by recreating that earlier shoe and calling it the Air Max 1 ‘86.

In many ways, the Nike Air Max 1 ‘86 resembles the more familiar model. It has a mesh base layer and synthetic suede overlays, with a large mudguard circumnavigating almost the entire shoe, and short swooshes on the sidewalls. As well as these logos, its other branding includes a Nike patch on the tongue and embroidered text on the heel. The outsole also presents another classic Nike element in the form of a Waffle tread pattern, which gives reliable traction.

The standout feature of the AM1 ‘86 is the exaggerated window in the heel of the midsole, which reveals even more of its bouncy Air Max unit than the traditional model. Fortunately, technology has evolved since the 1980s, and it is now structurally sound, so it won’t break when the temperature drops. With this supporting the heel, the rest of the midsole is filled with soft foam for high levels of comfort throughout.

By the time of its 2023 release, the surprising origin story of the Air Max 1 ‘86 had already been told, and the launch colourway, which showcased the same stylish red and white design as the original 1987 shoe, was an instant success. Nicknamed the Big Bubble, it was soon followed by other striking colourways and a variation adapted for playing golf.

In 2024, three collaborative versions were crafted with luxury French fashion label Jacquemus, each with sophisticated detailing such as the miniature golden swooshes on the flanks. These elegant sneakers brought the retro model even more attention, and it is now a sought-after shoe in its own right.

The nostalgic charm of the Nike Air Max 1 ‘86 Big Bubble lies in the incredible story behind its creation, while its modern-day appeal comes from the legendary comfort provided by its Air cushioning and the undeniable style of its classy outer.