Nike Dunk High

Dunk High

During the mid 80s, basketball was in the midst of a strong period of growth with the success and stardom of players like Michael Jordan. At the same time as Jordan was being awarded his own signature shoe, Nike was constructing the Nike Dunk High as a basketball trainer for players in the college leagues. In the years since its 1985 release, this humble basketball trainer has gone on a remarkable journey to become one of the most popular sneakers in history.

Although the first Nike Dunks were created as a High shoe for men, women’s models have also been released, and today there are numerous options for both. Many are two-tone colourways that emulate the simple design of the early ones, which were decorated in the colours of the college teams they were made for. Nowadays, the black and white Panda is one of the most popular out there, though it wasn’t a part of the original set. Those that were include the Syracuse, whose bright orange leather overlays represent the colours of the city’s university, and the Kentucky, which has blue panels over a white base layer. Like many of the shoes that were involved in the initial Be True to Your School collection, these two have been retroed, as have others, though not all have kept the nickname of their schools. For example, the Spartan Green was inspired by the Michigan State colourway from 1985, with dark green overlays on a white background, and the Midnight Navy is a retro of the OG Villanova University design featuring a mix of dark navy and white. 

Despite the presence of the odd monochromatic sneaker, like the sleek all-black colourway, plenty of other dichromatic Dunk Highs have been created, their bold colour-blocking always proving popular. The most common layout includes a white leather upper with colourful overlays in a second tone, while the sole unit is usually divided into a white midsole and an outsole that matches the overlays. These hues can be vivid, like on the radiant pink of the Pink Prime, or gentle, such as on the Pink Oxford and the Aluminum. Primary colours are popular choices for these two-tone sneakers – for example, there is the muted sky blue of the University Blue colourway and the deeper shade of navy on the Game Royal, with the Laser Blue providing a tone in between. Meanwhile, the Cargo Khaki displays an inky olive green hue, and the Championship Red features eye-catching University Red overlays. 

While these are composed of two colours inside and out, there are those which place additional hues on details like the tongue branding and the heel pull tab – the Australia, with its Noble Green overlays, and the Retro Blue Chill both have yellow on these features, for example. Others switch up the swooshes, as is the case on the Fossil Stone, which has black swooshes alongside its grey overlays. Some even opt for a different base colour, which can be a subtle tone, such as the off-white Phantom, or a bolder one like the black of the Psychic Purple. The Chocolate colourway does the same by combining two appealing shades of brown, the Summit White has a grey underlayer to distinguish its pristine white overlays, the rich burgundy panels of the Retro Dark Beetroot are set against a grey background and the Moon Fossil creates a powerful contrast with the use of black on the toe box and midfoot along with an earthy beige on its overlays. The basketball-inspired Lakers and Knicks sneakers take on a similar form, each displaying their team’s colours – purple on golden yellow and bright orange on deep purple respectively.

As well as Nike Dunk high-tops with multiple hues, there are those which incorporate a broad variety of materials. Models like the Vast Grey have the most straightforward construction, with a rubber sole unit and a leather upper, some bring in tumbled or cracked leather, such as on the Premium Cracked Leather Swoosh colourway, and others add even more premium textiles like suede or nubuck. The Light Chocolate pairs plush suede with high-quality leather, and the Pecan has an all-over brown nubuck upper. The many Chenille Swoosh models, on the other hand, show off furry swooshes made of chenille fabric on their flanks, and the vintage-looking Washed Denim was the first Nike Dunk to make use of the robust cotton textile. Meanwhile, other Highs in the Dunk line have introduced recycled textiles into their makeup. These are known as Next Nature designs, with one popular iteration being the Toasty Rattan, which features fleecy quilted overlays, a speckled sole unit and a distinctive pinwheel logo. Other emblems have been used to give various Dunk Highs their own individual look. For example, Certified Fresh models, such as the LX Team Gold, have special stamps printed onto their insoles and the Inspected By Swoosh Honeydew colourway carries a unique shipping label motif on its sockliner. Elsewhere, SE All-Star models have emblems that commemorate the NBA’s All-Star weekend. Owing to the Dunk High’s roots in basketball, sport is often a theme associated with the shoe, as can be seen on the I Got Next, which has the words of its nickname written in blue on its lateral heel and subtle water droplet patterns on its swooshes. Simple graphics like this occur on other Nike Dunks, while those such as the Dia De Muertos sneaker known as Somos Familia are adorned with a range of more expressive decorations.

Over the years, the Nike Dunk High has been released in an enormous range of colours and materials, with intriguing patterns and graphics adding further to its look. Throughout its history, there have also been a number of creations that have altered the appearance of the original while maintaining its overall aesthetic. Some of the first were made for skaters by Nike SB. Later models include the LXX, which is mostly distinguished by its use of premium leather from heel to toe, even on the tongue patch and insole. In contrast, the Dunk High Up, which is sometimes known as the Rebel, made a series of changes to the shoe, incorporating additional overlays and swooshes alongside a layered platform midsole. The Sky model also has an elevated appearance as its upper is shaped into the style of a boot with an even higher collar than the original. For a more conventional style, there is the Nike Dunk High 1985 – a sneaker which has been reworked to have the exact same shape and tooling as the very first model with retro-looking features such as aged denim and tie-dye patterns.

Collaborations have been a big part of the history of the Nike Dunk High. Skateboarding lifestyle brand Supreme, which began its work with Nike as early as 2002, has created a number of SB Dunks, including the three By Any Means sneakers, all of which are embroidered with various lines of stylised text. Since this early partnership, Dunk collaborations have popped up all over the globe, with many being crafted by Asian brands. In the early 2020s, Beijing-based streetwear retailer Soulgoods produced a series of Dunk Highs paying homage to aspects of Chinese culture, while Korean-American fashion designer Yoon Ahn brought Japanese inspirations to the sneaker via her Tokyo-based label, Ambush. This pairing has put out several Dunks, all adorned with extended swooshes that mimic the appearance of Japanese motorbike exhausts. More influences from Japan can be seen on designer and long-time Nike collaborator Hiroshi Fujiwara’s Dunk High builds. His Fragment Design fashion brand has been responsible for crafting many Nike sneakers, including 2010’s Dunk High City Pack collection and its 2021 expansion, the Fragment Tokyo colourway, with its captivating black and navy colour scheme.

Few sneakers have a history to rival that of the Nike Dunk High. Although it was released in an era dominated by high-top basketball trainers like the Air Jordan, it established itself alongside these giants of the sport before going on to become a highly sought after fashion item and a popular skate shoe. Today, the impressive growth of this sneaker line rolls on as new models are being added all the time, thus ensuring that the Dunk dynasty can continue to be enjoyed by future generations.